Opulence in Nungwi

Doomed Dalla-Dalla

On route to Nungwi fifty-seven kilometres north of Stone Town along the northernmost point of diamond- shaped Zanzibar. Atop a wooden bench I sat strung, wedged against a corner amongst twenty-two other passengers aboard of our dalla-dalla (canopied ute) careening 100 kilometres/hour through a downpour. A reoccurring theme I concede, my gripe against minibus taxis has often featured as part of my writing. Where my past grievance had been founded upon discomfort, Milli and I shared a genuine concern for our safety on this occasion. For our young ganja-eyed driver raced across the damp road at such speed that a twenty kilogram sack of grain was flung from the canopy above. Fortunate that our person and luggage had arrived unscathed, Milli and I agreed, that for the remainder of our journey we would abstain from minibus taxi transport.

Nungwi Dhow

Albeit built, the shore of Nungwi affords visitors picturesque white sands and an azure water that contests the coastline of Tofo and Vilankulo. Between a constant drizzle, brief bursts of sunshine shone across the coast exposing hues of gold and green. Regrettably though Milli and I swam along the beach but once. Behind the white sands along the coast from Nungwi to Kendwa, opulent resorts and hotels sit vacant, part closed on account of the low season and part abandoned. A drained pool and emptied beach lounges, the resorts exude an eery atmosphere as though a ghost town. I envisage Nungwi amidst the high season against the deserted sands of now and question which I prefer.

Mnemba Island Paradise

From the moment Milli and I had acquired our Open Water Certification in Nhkata Bay, we had been eagerly anticipating the opportunity to scuba dive on Zanzibar. Along the coral reef of Mneba Island, situated north-east of Zanzibar, Milli and I endeavoured upon our first ocean dive. Contending a current and salt water the dive presented a number of challenges dissimilar from Lake Malawi. The scenery spectacular, coral albeit somewhat bleached housed a motley of brilliant fish amongst eel, stingray and turtles. Unfortunately, descending a depth of nineteen metres my camera was not capable of photographing the magnificent marine life, which remains solely in my thoughts and recorded against my log book.

Select Your Pool Please

Traipsing across Southern Africa, Milli and I have for the greater part occupied modest lodgings where heated water and functional air conditioning remain a distant luxury. On approach of Milli’s upcoming departure, we decided to indulge one night of luxury, regardless of cost at the five-star Royal Zanzibar Beach Resort.

An inclusive package had meant uncapped cocktails and three-course breakfast, lunch and dinner. Amongst newly wed couples and affluent senior guests, Milli and I stood somewhat disconnected and out of place. Habits acquired on route held true amongst the five-star resort, utilising the scalding hot water and grandiose basin to hand wash my clothes, beside Millli who lay among the two person bath.Although our night spent lounging across beach chairs clasping a cocktail, pampered by hotel employees and gorging upon a boundless buffet was an earned retreat for Milli and I, my preferred accommodation remains the hostel for the guests are far more intriguing.

Old Habits